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Old 10-25-2005, 12:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Skunk2 Stage 2 cams B18C issues

Installed my cams, valve springs/retainers and cam gears...couple of things I have noticed about them and I wanted to see if anyone else has this same issue...

Okay, I am used to having a higher idle with stage 2 cams...but these cams idle @ about 2000 rpm...if it was 1200 or even 1500 I wouldn't be thinkin about it but 2000 seems a bit high to me....

The car is also exhibiting an urge to stall at stoplights, etc which could be because its running a bit rich right now...

Fuel/air ratio is always in the green (autometer F/A Gauge) except under full power shifts, even after it has warmed up.

As for overall performance...WOW, the car screams from the new vtec engagement point of 6200 rpm all the way to 10k...they also make a fair amount of torque as I found out when launching @ 5500...tires just broke loose and I sat there for about a half second before skipping down the road.

Over all, I like the cams, but the previously mentioned issues make me wonder if I F@cked something up, or if I just need to spend some dyno time with it.

Thanks in advance...
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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yea thats too high... on my friends ls/vtec setup his was the same idling that high but i removed the warmup idle thing because it was just pulling the tb open just too much but i dont know what you have
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Intake air temperature sensor? Throttle body gasket?
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I was wondering if it was the warm up idle plunger (I thin thats what its called) I checked it, then replaced it with one off an extra TB I had lying around, same results...

The motor is a usdm b18c with a mild port & polish, supertech valve springs & retainers, I already adjusted my valves and they are tight, throttle body gasket is good air temp sensor is good, no chk engine light.

One thing happened this morning that had me almost shit a brick, I was on the freeway, and suddenly I started running WAAAY lean, lean enough to feel the motor shift, i pulled off and richened up my mixture with my VAFC, it ran fine after...


Argh...
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm thinking you might have gotten yourself a vacuum leak. I'd suggest starting with a quick visual of everything between the TB and head just to rule that out first.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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visually checked the entire intake side, TB bolts tight, intake man tight...wouldn't a vaccum leak cause the idle to fluctuate, not hold steady? When I first start the car the idle is steady @ 2k. If I go down the block a bit and hit a stop ligt, it will SOMETIMES drop, its not super consistent.

I know my air/fuel ratio is part of the prob, she drank 1/2 a tank of gas just to go to mountain view and back this morning.
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Old 10-25-2005, 01:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtimer
visually checked the entire intake side, TB bolts tight, intake man tight...wouldn't a vaccum leak cause the idle to fluctuate, not hold steady? When I first start the car the idle is steady @ 2k. If I go down the block a bit and hit a stop ligt, it will SOMETIMES drop, its not super consistent.

I know my air/fuel ratio is part of the prob, she drank 1/2 a tank of gas just to go to mountain view and back this morning.

yes vaccum leak will cause the idle to fluctuate not hols teady. does it drop once the car is warmed up or just ranndomly? sounds like your running way rich... but i duno how it leaned just that one time...... don't run your car too rich like that as it will eat away your fuel filter, o2 sensor and your cat. you will have more problems like that.

i wounder if its the safc problem. did u solder all the wires?

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Old 10-25-2005, 02:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It depends on how big the vacuum leak is. In theory, the IAC will try to compensate by lowering its duty cycle to get control of idle speed back, but if it's REALLY big (like brake booster big) even with the IAC completed closed, it will still idle high, and will do it all the time.

If you think about it, the only things that CAN cause a high idle are a stuck throttle or a vacuum leak. The only one of those two that would lead to bad gas mileage is a vacuum leak, because a stuck throttle wouldn't let unmetered air into the engine.
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I am hooking up with a buddy of mine who went through the honda program @ evergreen, I'll let you know what we find. I seriously appreciate ya'lls help.

I don't solder, but I had this guy that worked with me, an engineer, who was like, friggen macguyver with a solder iron soldier them..

Last edited by oldtimer; 10-25-2005 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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well, we found out it was my ECU, I was using a ericks racinfg ecu that I had from my old eg and the fuel mapping was way off for my currently stock ignition. We plugged in a stock GSR ecu and things went alot better, idle dropped to 1300, and it hasn't exhibited the urge to stall at stoplights. We are going to spend some tuning time on the dyno today, I'll post my sheet if I can.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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thats good to hear and i cant wait to see some dyno numbers
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Old 10-27-2005, 01:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, she dyno'd at 171.20 at 7600 rpm. Max torque was 123.19 at 6200 rpm, baseline was 169.09 hp, 121.77 torque, VAFC can only go so far.

But, that is an 11 hp gain over my baseline prior to the install of the cams and intake manifold and torque is up by 13 over the prior base lin. Soon as the shop emails me the actual dyno sheet I'll post a link

Next on the upgrade list is my ignition, I want to try my ericks ecu again with more spark.

Sittin here with the flu sucks....
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Old 10-27-2005, 08:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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where did you dyno at?
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Tech 3 performance, it's on the southside
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtimer
well, we found out it was my ECU, I was using a ericks racinfg ecu that I had from my old eg and the fuel mapping was way off for my currently stock ignition. We plugged in a stock GSR ecu and things went alot better, idle dropped to 1300, and it hasn't exhibited the urge to stall at stoplights. We are going to spend some tuning time on the dyno today, I'll post my sheet if I can.
We had a similar problem doing an h22 swap, except our idle was bouncing, electrical problems can be such a bitch.
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Old 10-28-2005, 10:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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11 hp? how much money did you spend for 11 hp. my guess is over 500 dollars. 500 dollars could get you 75 hp with nitrous. maybe "only babys suck on bottles" but they get more then 11 hp for the same moneys.
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Old 10-28-2005, 11:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accent_tuner
11 hp? how much money did you spend for 11 hp. my guess is over 500 dollars. 500 dollars could get you 75 hp with nitrous. maybe "only babys suck on bottles" but they get more then 11 hp for the same moneys.

OMFG...talk about not letting shit die...dude, I don't like nitrous, I don't care how many times you say "nitrous" I refuse to use it.

If this was called "n20 b18c skunk 2 stage 2 cams" your response would be on topic....
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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1st run in august

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...l/scan0001.jpg

latest run

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...l/scan0002.jpg
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